MINI SERIES: COLLAGEN #3

#3 Collagen - The Elixir Of Youth?

As we learnt from Meryl Streep in the cult 90's film 'Death Becomes Her', the quest for eternal youth is something many strive for and youthful skin can become the ultimate skincare goal. But unfortunately, ageing IS a natural part of life and as time passes by collagen levels start to decline. From the age of 20, 1 % percent less collagen is produced in the dermis each year. As we age less collagen is produced and both collagen and elastin fibres break, thicken, stiffen, clump together and lose their elasticity.

Without collagen the skin will lose its youthful, plumpness and slowly the signs of ageing becoming increasing Visible. There's no stopping the ageing process. Luckily there are ways to slow it down and prevent some of the visible signs of ageing. One way to preserve youthful skin is to activate or regenerate fibroblast cells ensuring a good supply of collagen fibres and firmer skin.

Collagen and Youthful Looks

 www.skyebluebeauty.ltd.uk

Adapted from an article in the IIAA Bulletin April 2018

MINI SERIES: COLLAGEN #1

#1 What Is Collagen?

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body and is found mainly in the skin, muscles, bones, cartilage and all the body's connective tissues. In the skin, collagen is responsible for its strength and elasticity. Collagen is made by the fibroblast cells found in the dermis. In addition to making collagen, fibroblast cells are also responsible for elastin production, as well as natural moisturising factors such as Hyaluronic acid. Fibroblast cells protect collagen by inhibiting collagenase (an enzyme that breaks down collagen) and also make pro-collagenases which destroy old and damaged collagen. Normal, healthy collagen (in lattice-type formation) is incredibly strong. It can be compared to a rubber band as it is extremely elastic and springs back when stretched.

There are several factors that contribute to collagen loss including: natural skin ageing and UV damage. Other key contributory factors to collagen loss include free radicaI damage and lifestyle (i.e. smoking, excess caffeine, alcohol and sugar consumption). If fibroblasts are damaged by UV rays or free radicals they will produce defective collagen.

If deep, long term damage to the structural proteins occur then the skin loses its tone and structure. Therefore it is important to safeguard your natural collagen by ensuring protecting your skin from UV damage and follow a healthy diet and lifestyle.

www.skyebluebeauty.ltd.uk

Adapted from an article in the IIAA Bulletin April 2018

MINI SERIES: HORMONES - THE EFFECTS ON SKIN AT EACH STAGE OF LIFE #5

FIFTIES - SKIN & THE MENOPAUSE

The menopause usually occurs between 45 and 55 years of age. It follows the perimenopause stage and is when menstrual periods stop and fertility ends. Menopause symptoms include hot flushes, insomnia, and weight gain, loss of sex drive, mood swings, depression and changes

to the appearance of the skin. A rather irritating symptom is also unwanted facial hair. Some women often find hairs appearing on their chin or Jaw line, which is caused by a drop in oestrogen and rise in testosterone levels. It is also during this time that women may opt for treatment to relieve some of the many symptoms of the menopause such as BHRT (Bio-identical hormone replacement therapy).

"Bio-identical hormones are exactly similar in molecular structure (i.e, identical) to the hormones that your ovaries and adrenal glands secrete into your bloodstream. They are produced in the laboratory from plants, usually yam or soya" - Dr Yehudi Gordon (Consultant Gynaecologist)

WHAT ARE TYPICAL MENOPAUSE SKIN CHANGES?

1. Change in fat deposits

Oestrogen deficiency during menopause causes a change in body composition with an increase in abdominal fat. This contributes to metabolic syndrome which increases the risk of cardiac disease and diabetes. Facial fat becomes thinner resulting in loss of volume.

2. Wrinkles

Wrinkles will become more prominent as your skin begins to sag and lose its elasticity.

3. Hyperpigmentation/ Age Spots

Melanocytes, which are the cells that manufacture the pigment melanin, are also controlled by oestrogens. As menopause kicks in, melanocytes levels decline. As melanin decreases, areas of the skin become lighter and therefore more susceptible to sun damage.

4. Sun Damage

Years of sun exposure can results in solar lentigines. These brown 'age spots' may start to appear on the face, neck, hands, arms and chest. Age spots can look flat with a black, brown or even grey colour. However, often at times these age spots may have a similar appearance to some skin cancers. Therefore, as a precaution, if your client is concerned with very dark spots or spots that one that looks blotchy or are increasing in size, it is best to advise them to visit their GP.

5. Dry Skin

Dry skin happens as your skin ages because it fails to produce natural oils partly due to a decrease in hormone production. Seasonal changes also affect menopause skin changes. However on the contrary, some women may experience oily skin with the decline in oestrogen.

USEFUL TIPS FOR COPING WITH THE MENOPAUSE

1. Use SPF cream wiih antioxidants - a winning combination for menopausal skin changes.

2 Eliminate scrubs, harsh cleansers and facial brushes which strip the skin of natural oils and disrupt the stratum corneum promoting transepidermal water loss.

3. Use a hydrating oil based cleanser that removes environmental pollutants from the skin whilst maintaining the natural acid balance of the skin.

4. Introduce key active ingredients such as vitamin A and C orally and topically, along with antioxidants to protect the skin against the damaging effects of free radicals. Vitamin A thickens the skin, whilst stimulating natural moisturising factors, Vitamin C will support collagen production and help generate healthy skin cells.

5. Introduce a good quality omega 3 and 6 supplement to compensate for the decline in oils and nutrients.

6. Supplement with bio-identical hormones which will reduce or eliminate the symptoms of the menopause. Combined with lifestyle and dietary changes this can mean staying vital, strong and healthy (physically and mentally) as we go through the menopause and beyond. 

Next in the series: Five Steps to Hormonal Happiness

Source: IIA Bulletin March 2018 

MINI SERIES: HORMONES - THE EFFECTS ON SKIN AT EACH STAGE OF LIFE #4

FORTIES - THE PERIMENOPAUSE

The lead up to the menopause can be a tricky time. Perimenopause is the phase before menopause actually takes place and normally lasts between 3 - 4 years. During this phase, hormone production begins to decline and fluctuate.

Declining oestrogen levels mean skin becomes thinner with more pronounced wrinkles such as those on the upper lip. Loss of collagen and elastin combined with reduced volume (subcutaneous fat) and bone shrinkage results in loss of structural integrity and the face literally sliding south. The severity of these symptoms will depend on UV exposure from childhood, genetics, lifestyle as well as medication which will each have an impact on the quality of skin.

The hormones that help regulate the sebaceous glands, such as oestrogen also start to decline, leading to stubborn breakouts or acne in some women. This is further aggravated by the slowing-down of the skins cell renewal process in more mature skin. As excess skin cells build

up, blocked pores already clogged with sebum, are further irritated causing inflammation.

STEPS TO TAKE

Balance from within

Look at your diet. Balance blood sugar levels with a combination of vegetables, wholegrains with lean protein foods including meat, fish, eggs, nuts, lentils and fibre. Cut down on caffeine, sugar and alcohol. Smoking is a no no.

Get physical

The decrease of hormonal levels means increased risk of osteoporosis so keep moving with daily exercise such as walking daily for at least 30 minutes. Building in weight bearing exercise is essential to help strengthen bones. Exercise is also great for beating depression and anxiety and boosting your libido.

Supplement your diet

Introduce a good multivitamin to ensure appropriate levels of magnesium, vitamin D to channel calcium to the core of the bones and ensure daily essential Omega 3 to help With dry skin, low mood and depression.

Next in the series: Fifties - Skin and the Menopause

Source: IIA Bulletin March 2018

MINI SERIES: HORMONES - THE EFFECTS ON SKIN AT EACH STAGE OF LIFE #3

TWENTIES/THIRTIES - HORMONES & PREGNANCY

Did you know that from 26'ish women will see a different type of hormonal acne - deep, cystic bumps in the chin and jawline area and products won't work as well on these hormonal breakouts. Other female-only hormonal changes include pregnancy, the contraceptive pill and PCOS (Polycystic Ovary Syndrome).

Many women experience acne or skin breakouts Just before 'that time of the month' as when hormonal levels fluctuate this in turn, stimulates the sebaceous glands. The contraceptive pill. that contains artificial hormones oestrogen and progesterone, may cause photo-sensitivity

In some women and result in pigmentation. The onset of pregnancy, is another trigger for hormonal changes that may lead to pigmentation and sometimes acne. Managing skin concerns, whilst pregnant can be very difficult as some treatments/remedies may have to be avoided.

Wrinkles and pigmentation usually start to appear as a result of damage done to skin in teens. The skin will start to appear dull as already skin cell turnover will be slowing down. Now is the time to start investing in active products and treatments to ensure firmer, younger looking skin. Having regular vitamin A based treatments and gradually increasing the dosage can help encourage healthy cell production. Using vitamin A and C orally can also enhance collagen synthesis.

Tips;

Use a mild oil based cleanser and avoid scrubs.

Start to introduce vitamin C orally and topically for strong healthy collagen formation.

Get your skin analysed and follow with a tailored skincare programme.

Introduce vitamin A orally and topically to help keep skin looking healthy (skin care expert to advise during pregnancy).

Protect the skin from the sun at all times and use an antioxidant based sunscreen.

Next in the series: Forties - The Perimenopause

Source: IIA Bulletin March 2018

MINI SERIES: HORMONES - THE EFFECTS ON SKIN AT EACH STAGE OF LIFE #2

TEENS - HORMONES & PUBERTY 

Although acne can start at any age, hormonal changes during puberty may trigger acne flare ups. According to the British Skin Foundation, acne affects around 80% of adolescents aged 13-18 years Why is this? During puberty, hormones that promote natural development, will raise testosterone levels in boys and girls. A side effect of this can be the overproduction of sebum which in turn can cause acne. Stress is also a contributory factor. Exams, social pressures and dealing with puberty itself can lead to a rise in the adrenal hormones, again causing the sebaceous glands to 'overproduce sebum. 

Tips;

Avoid harsh scrubs or cleansers.

Use mineral based make-up to avoid artificial chemicals that will clog the skin further.

Use vitamin A orally and topically to help normalise sebum production.

Next in the series: Twenties/Thirties - Hormones and Pregnancy.

Source: IIA Bulletin March 2018

MINI SERIES: HORMONES - THE EFFECTS ON SKIN AT EACH STAGE OF LIFE #1

WHAT ARE HORMONES AND WHY ARE THEY SO IMPORTANT? 

Hormones are chemical messengers that send messages to the cells that they interact with. They can affect several processes in the body including growth, reproduction and metabolism. Hormones can also influence the immune system as well as our mood, causing changes in behavior. Unsurprisingly, during the average life journey, numerous hormonal changes can reflect in various ways on our skin's appearance and condition. For example, skin conditions commonly associated with puberty includes acne, while dryness, loss of collagen and elasticity, reduced volume are noted during menopause and surprisingly skin that suffers from breakouts is also common. The bad news is that, as we age these skin changes are inevitable. The good news is that by understanding why and what steps to take, each of us can stay in control.

Next in the series: Teens - Hormones and Puberty

Source: IIA Bulletin March 2018

The Rise of Concern Based Skincare

The Rise of Concern Based Skincare

SKINCARE GETS PERSONAL

As skincare professionals, we see clients seeking treatments for skin concerns such as Acne, Rosacea, Pigmentation, Dry, Sensitive or Fine Lines/Wrinkles on a daily basis. Research from the British Skin Foundation has found that 60% of British people currently suffer from or have suffered from a skin condition at some point during their lifetime.

British People Suffer From Skin Condition

When it comes to skincare efficacy, a 'one size fits all' approach is no longer enough. Discerning clients armed with more information via the internet, reality programmes and social commentary, want to treat specific skin concerns to benefit from skincare regimes tailored to meet their personal needs

SKIN CONCERN? WHAT SKIN CONCERN?

When looking at skin concerns, it appears that overall, both men and women are paying more attention to the 'what' and the 'how to resolve if. A recent study of 92 dermatology clinics found a 200% rise in the number of adults seeking specialist Acne treatment'. Other skin conditions on the

ise include Rosacea and Pigmentation. Rosacea treatment enquiries are up by 92%, double compared to the year before. Hyperpigmentation, caused by the overproduction of Melanin resulting in darker patches on the skin, can not only make skin look uneven but can also give the appearance of aged skin.

Rise In Adults Seeking Acne Treatment

What has caused this rise in skin concerns? Note: a few modern day factors that have huge impact

DIET - SUGAR AND PROCESSED FOODS

Diets high in sugar, lacking nutrients and full of processed foods can lead to a host of adverse health issues, including heart disease, weight gain and also skin problems. Yet, as a nation, we are consuming more sugar and processed foods than ever before. The World Health Organisation has stated that people should aim to get just 5% of their daily calories from sugary foods. However, the average is 12.3% for adults under 65 according to the national diet and nutrition survey (NONS). Sugar can trigger a spike in blood sugar levels. This increases levels of insulin that can cause skin problems such as acne and rosacea. In fact, an overview of research carried out over the past 50 years has found that eating foods with a high glycaemic index (GI) not only aggravated acne, but in some cases triggered it, too",

HORMONES AND STRESS FACTORS

A survey of 4,000 people ' found that four out of five adults feel stressed during a typical week, while almost one in ten were stressed all the time. There is now a greater understanding of the link between stress and adverse effects on skin health. For example, stress hormones trigger overproduction of sebum that can create or worsen Acne. Raised levels of stress hormones promote transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance. While in general. hormonal imbalances can play havoc on the health of skin whether caused by stress or other factors such as PMS, pregnancy, puberty and menopause.

ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS

Daily exposure to free radicals, including pollution, UVA/UBA rays can also lead to various skin issues. Air pollution can lead to premature ageing by accelerating wrinkles and age spots, according to emerging scientific research'. Clients reporting sun damage is also very common. Although more than eight out of 10 people are worried about skin cancer, 72% have been sunburnt in the past year".

UVA rays are particularly dangerous because they don't cause burning, so there's no immediate sign that any damage is being done. In fact, the tell-tale pigmentation marks, excessive wrinkles and leathery texture often don't become apparent until many years later

Rosacea Treatment Enquiries

 2018 - STAND AND DELIVER. THE MOVE TO 21ST CENTURY SKIN CARE

Personalised and information based skincare is the future. Providing a consultative approach enables client confidence and loyalty through a longer term treatment programme. Therapists should be taking a three pronged approach when treating their clients:

1.       Start with a detailed skin analysis, in order to really understand the client's skin. Use skin imaging technology and take photos regularly to show progress.
Discuss and design a personalised treatment programme - the #100DayReset programme is ideal for both new and existing clients. Combine professional treatments with a personalised homecare routine to address the client's concern.

2.       Treat from within. Skin nourished from the inside looks healthy on the outside. Clients who use appropriate supplements are likely to achieve far superior results.

3.       Use topical treatments that are about efficacy and integrity.
Topical vitamin treatments that contain vitamin A have shown to make a dramatic difference to skin concerns.

If clients are using the wrong kind of make-up it could undo all the hard work. Encourage the use of non-comedogenic cosmetics to avoid aggravating concerns. Remember, mineral make-up, such as Jane Iredale, is the best kind for clients with problematic skin as it allows the skin to breathe.

Don't worry about discussing your skin issues with a professional skincare expert, we are here to help and support you, to get your skin in its best possible condition.

Call us on 01283 561208, or pop in for a chat.

Skye Blue Beauty

153 Station Street

Burton Upon Trent

DE14 1BG

DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME

The importance of visiting a professional to carry out potentially risky treatments was thrown into the spotlight time and again in 2017. Much to the frustration of therapists and techs, it seemed stories of consumers injuring themselves as a result of DIY treatments were rarely out of the news. In May, the British Association of Dermatologists (BAD) reported a surge in people suffering from allergic reactions after using home gel-polish and acrylic kits, ranging from sore cuticles to the natural nails lifting from the nail beds. It wasn't just consumers at fault though - the adverse reactions were also attributed to techs mixing products and technologies from different brands systems.                                                                            Separately, a survey revealed just how often people injure themselves when attempting to remove their own pubic hair, with 14% admitting they had sustained injuries that required medical attention. Even more seriously, experts began warning consumers against buying skin peels from eBay following reports of people suffering severe facial burns. Campaign group Safety in Beauty received 27 complaints of chemical peels gone wrong from products containing banned ingredients such as trichoroacetic acid. Visit Your Local Beauty Professionals Skye Blue Beauty 153 Station Street Burton Upon Trent Staffordshire DE14 1BG or call us on 01283 561208 www.skyebluebeauty.net

MINI SERIES: STRESS #2 - THE FOUR SIGNS TO WATCH OUT FOR

STRESS - THE FOUR SIGNS TO WATCH OUT FOR

1. SKIN

Stress can also have a major impact on the skin's appearance. with certain skin conditions actually directly caused by stress. These include:

Dryness/Dullness. Raised levels of cortisol promotes transepidermal water loss resulting in dry and dull skin appearance.

Fine Lines. Raised cortisol can trigger elevated blood sugar levels via a process known as glycation. Ultimately, glycation damages collagen and elastin, two fibers that help to keep skin smooth, plump and firm. Counteract the effects with vitamin A along with antioxidants to stimulate collagen production and help diminish the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

Acne. Stress triggers the release of androgens (male hormones) like testosterone which are responsible for the production of sebum. Women suffer more than men as they produce a much higher amount of androgens in the adrenal gland than men. Incorporate treatments with salicylic acid and vitamin A to control bacteria, clogged pores and to normalise sebum production.

2. NO SLEEP

Your skin is the window to what's going on in your body internally, so if you're not sleeping and your system isn't functioning properly, you're going to notice a dull complexion, dry, flaky skin and breakouts. Stress causes magnesium deficiency. The benefits of magnesium for anxiety and stress are substantial. When people are low in magnesium, they feel anxious, suffer with muscle cramps and may experience insomnia. Lack of sleep will also have a negative impact on skin health. A recent study found that poor quality sleepers showed increased signs of intrinsic skin ageing including fine lines, uneven pigmentation and reduced elasticity.

3. LOW ENERGY

Stress can put more demand on the B vitamins in the body.

B vitamins are depleted by stress hormones such as cortisol. which get used up during stress responses such as the tensing of muscles and the rise of blood pressure.

B vitamins are important vitamins as they contribute to normal energy-yielding metabolism and are key for supporting mental health and combating stress. As B vitamins are water soluble they need to be replenished on a regular basis. Good sources of foods rich in B vitamins include cereals and grains, meats, fish, poultry, milk, eggs and vegetables. Supplementing your diet with B vitamins is an effective way to ensure you get enough on a daily basis.

4. GUT HEALTH

When the body is under stress, cortisol diverts energy away from the gut to muscles and the brain. It works to keep blood sugar elevated by feeding glucose to the brain and retains sodium to keep blood pressure levels up. During this fight-or-flight response, immune system and digestion slows down, this can cause the gut to become vulnerable to infection and inflammation.

Probiotics help supply the gut with beneficial bacteria. These 'good' bacteria play key roles in helping to maintain a healthy gut. They assist in digestion and, in fact, produce substances that nourish the lining of the intestines. By supporting digestive health, and addressing these internal imbalances, this may help reduce bloating and improve general well-being. A recent study published in The Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology found that consistent stress negativity affects the amount and diversity of your good gut flora.

Original article: IIAA Bulletin November 2017

MINI SERIES: STRESS #1

MINI SERIES: STRESS - SKIN & WELLBEING

One in six people in the workplace are affected by stress, anxiety or depression at any one time in this country, according to the leading UK charity MIND.

MANAGING STRESS

The drive to work longer hours is now a reality for many. Work life balance is harder to achieve and the digital economy adds pressure to personal and professional performance. Stress is a natural part of life today and hard to avoid. However, managing stress and recognising the signs are important [the good and the bad news is that your skin will often be a visible indicator of stress).

CORTISOL - ANGEL OR DEVIL

When stress occurs, the body produces two hormones - adrenaline and cortisol. Adrenaline helps the body to react to perceived 'danger' and once that threat is over, will return to normal levels. Cortisol, produced by the adrenal glands, also helps your body cope with stress and is essential for maintaining a healthy immune system, however if allowed to continue at high levels, can have a negative impact all over the body. Signs include thinning skin, weaker bones, higher fluid retention and bloating, a higher risk of bruising easily, delayed wound healing, weight gain and overall hormone imbalance between estrogen, progesterone and testosterone.

KEY FACT - STRESS AND INFLAMMATION

Stress causes high levels of cortisol leading to increased inflammation. As prolonged stress causes irregular levels of cortisol, this results in the gut becoming inflamed. Specifically in skin, multiple neuroinflammatory conditions can be triggered or aggravated by stress, such as: psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, acne and contact dermatitis.

Original article: IIAA Bulletin November 2017

Mini Series - Vitamin A Myths #3

MYTH #3 - Vitamin A is toxic

This is one of the most common myths and often arises from confusion about the Recommended Daily Amounts (RDA) for oral consumption. The RDA is the minimum amount needed to prevent diseases such as rickets and scurvy, NOT the maximum. According to the European Food Safety Authority, the upper tolerable level is 10,000 ius daily, and experts argue that it should be much higher.
Dr Fernandes is a strong advocate of supplementing with vitamin A. “When we apply vitamin A to the skin, only a fraction of it penetrates down to the level of the dermis and even the most sophisticated modern tests have barely been able to detect any vitamin A in the bloodstream even when very high doses are applied”, he says.
“I feel nervous if I don’t apply it every day via my Environ^® creams, and feel more assured if I take 40,000 – 50,000 ius of vitamin A daily”, he adds. “It works with our DNA to determine how skin cells behave, how they differentiate into specialist cells and how they mature, not just in our skin but throughout our whole body… It is fundamentally the most important molecule in addressing sun damage and anti-ageing. There is nothing else like it”.

Environ Vitamin A Treatment

Lorraine Perretta, Head of Nutrition at the International Institute for Anti-Ageing (IIAA), agrees that taking vitamin A orally is key. “It’s important to feed the skin internally as well as externally. Unless you eat liver a few times a week, you will find it very hard to get adequate vitamin A levels from your diet, so I’d recommend at least 5000 ius a day.”
 
Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

Mini Series - Vitamin A Myths #2

MYTH
Vitamin A causes photo sensitivity
The retinol and retinoic acid forms of vitamin A do make the skin photosensitive, but the retinyl palmitate form has extremely valuable photo-protective properties. 
Research by the dermatology department at University Hospital Geneva showed that at high levels, topical retinyl palmitate was as efficient as an SPF20 sunscreen in preventing sunburn. However, UV light breaks it down, so also taking it as a supplement is recommended to support topical application.

Sun Damaged Skin

“Retinol is an alcohol and is more irritating to the skin and photosensitises it”, says Dr Fernandes. “retinyl palmitate, on the other hand, absorbs the energy of UVB and UVA just like a sunscreen does and that is why it disappears in sun-exposed skin and the skin becomes depleted.” 
"It is fundamentally the most important molecule in addressing sun damage and anti-ageing. There is nothing else like it.” 
Environ^® Founder Dr Des Fernandes

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

Mini Series - Vitamin A Myths #1

MYTH
Vitamin A thins the skin
Studies show that vitamin A compacts the stratum corneum and thickens the epidermis, which runs completely contrary to the idea that it has a thinning effect. It influences the genes that cause epidermal stem cells to grow into fully functioning keratinocytes and mature into healthy layers of the epidermis. Vitamin A increases the growth of the basal layer which is why the epidermis becomes thicker and therefore more tolerant to damaging environmental effects.

"You can thicken the epidermis by up to 100 per cent compared to not using vitamin A”
Environ^® Founder Dr Des Fernandes

Environ Skin Care in Burton on Trent

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

Know your Vitamin A with Environ Skincare

Know your vitamin A.

Although there are several forms of vitamin A, they are all ultimately converted into retinoic acid, which is the one that does all the work.

1. Retinyl Palmitate, Retinyl Proprionate and Retinyl Acetate
These are known as retinyl esters and are the milder, more stable fat soluble forms of vitamin A which are active but still easily tolerated by skin. This is the form of vitamin A stored in our liver, our skin and cells all over our body. 

2. Retinol
This is the alcohol form and is used to transport vitamin A in the bloodstream. It’s highly active so although it does achieve excellent results it can also be quite irritating on skin, sometimes causing it to peel. You should only use this as part of the Environ® skincare programme once the skin has become accustomed to high levels of retinyl palmitate and acetate within the step –up system.

3. Retinyl Aldehyde
This is the form of vitamin A which is essential for night vision. It is sometimes used in skincare because it is only one metabolic step away from retinoic acid and can make the same changes to the skin, but is less irritating. However, once it’s applied virtually all of it is converted into retinyl esters and only a tiny fraction becomes retinoic acid.

4. Retinoic Acid
This is the metabolically active form of vitamin A which works on the DNA of the cell’s nucleus. It is a drug and only available on prescription

What form of vitamin A is in Environ’s Youth EssentiA^® and Skin EssentiA^® ranges?

These Environ^® ranges use the milder forms of vitamin A to avoid retinoid reactions and to enable skin to become accustomed to increasingly high levels.

• Retinyl palmitate is used in Environ^® Skin EssentiA^® Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1-3

• Retinyl acetate can be found in Environ^® Skin EssentiA^® Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 4 

• Environ^® Skin EssentiA^® Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 5 contains both.

• The Youth EssentiA^® range features retinyl proprionate in levels 1-4, but Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum 4 also includes retinyl palmitate.

Vitamin A is the key

Adapted from a post in the September 2017 IIAA Bulletin

The Best Sunscreen is Not The One With The Highest SPF Factor

SPF – Sun Protection Factor

We all know that sunscreens are caterogised by their SPF rating but you probably have no idea what it actually means??  Or What it tells you about the sunscreen?  Let’s clarify this…

“It is important to remember that the SPF rating largely refers to UVB protection, as the index is based on reddening or sunburn, and is therefore an incomplete and possibly misleading index in terms of cancer prevention in skin.”
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

Just remember UVB is for burning and UVA is for ageing… UVB rays are also responsible for the formation of skin cancers and that the effects of even just one sunburn will last a lifetime.

What SPF is best?

We’re taught the higher the SPF the better the sunscreen and the greater protection it will provide our skin…  This often misleads consumers into thinking that they can spend more time being exposed to the sun. But in actual fact, higher SPFs could actually be causing more long term damage to our skin.  Think about it, to make a sunscreen with a higher SPF lets say a 50+, it physically has to contain more chemicals.

“Scientists do not recommend anything stronger than SPF 15 -20 because there is minimal advantage from the higher SPFs, but significantly greater doses of sunscreen chemcials.”
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

These chemicals or organic sunscreen agents, are then converted into free radicals once exposed to UV rays, which effectively ‘rusts’ our DNA – changing the structure of our cells and leading to skin ageing and skin cancer.

“A frightening statistic is that skin cancer has risen since high SPF products were introduced. We are not sure why. Do people perhaps stay longer in the sun and incur more damage, or are the protective molecules damaging our skin by generating free radicals?”
Vitamin A skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen.

The general perception would be, that the level of protection offered between a lower and higher SPF is a large percentage. In actual fact the percentage is very low at about a 5% difference between an SPF 15 and SPF 50. This is really surprising and can be very misleading.

What should you look for in a sunscreen?

For your sunscreen to provide real protection from damaging ultraviolet light it should contain three essential elements… Adequate UVA cover, adequate UVB cover and sufficient antioxidant cover.
But why antioxidants?

“Antioxidants are free radical scavengers that help minimise the damage of UV rays that penetrate the sunscreen and filters” 
Vitamin A Skin Science, Dr Des Fernandes & Dr Ernst Eiselen

Antioxidants help to protect our DNA to ensure its integrity.  Using antioxidants in conjunction with sunscreens is a fairly new idea but Dr Des Fernandes has been incorporating them into his sunscreens since 1990.  This way the sunscreen offers a wide range of protection to the skin.  Not only physically protecting it but also repairing any damage that occurs due to UV exposure or the sunscreen ingredients.  His studies are proving that the inclusion of the antioxidants are providing real protection to our DNA against the damage caused by the UV rays.
(If you aren’t able to find a sunscreen that also contains potent antioxidants you can always use a seperate product)
Look for ingredients like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide that act as reflectors. Reflectors are agents that reflect or block most UV rays, rather than absorbing the UV rays.  Titanium is a great, safe and very effective alternative for people who suffer reactions from other UV filters (chemicals).  Zinc oxide is another great UV reflector and is beneficial in reducing acne and enhancing collagen formation.

What sunscreen should I buy?

Since the introduction of SPF50+ sunscreens, it can be very difficult to find a sunscreen that is only an SPF 15 or 20. It’s definitely not impossible but you just have to do your research. We are lucky that Environ manufacture RAD SPF15 with its unique formulation that includes antioxidants - it truly is a fantastic product, which we use regularly and can honestly say that it is the best sun cream that we have ever used.

Remember, Dr Des Fernandes recomends using a sunscreen containing both UVA and UVB elements and potent antioxidants.  Use a lower SPF and apply it in an adequate dose to ensure you’re protected… The recommended dosage is 2mg per centimeters squared.  No sunscreen is going to offer complete protection, so be sensible.  Limit your time spent exposed to the sun, cover up your skin, wear a hat and reapply your sunscreen!!!

Daily sunsreen and antioxidant protection can prevent photo ageing (premature ageing) and skin cancers!

Environ #100DayReset

The Environ 100 Day Reset Programme

What is it?
Quite simply, it’s a 100 day journey to healthier skin. A proven way to forget quick fixes and learn a longer term solution

How does it work?

It is carried it out in 3 phases.
Phase 1: Getting started. In this stage you’ll receive an in depth consultation to really allow us to understand you, your skin and your lifestyle. Based on your concerns, we’ll slowly build you a personalised skin health programme. Days 0-30
Phase 2: So at around day 30, you’ll come back in to us and check your progress. You’ll see changes as your skin responds to your tailor-made regime. Here is where we’ll make any adjustments or add something to really keep you going. Days 30-60
Phase 3: You’re over half way here! Its around day 60 you’ll really be seeing the differences to your complexion. You’ll have an extra glow, be maintaining more moisture and your skin will be more plump. We’ll make any final changes and marvel at your results! Days 60-100
If you want to know more details or book a consultation, either send us a message or call us on 01283 561208

Let’s get healthy skin, together.

#100dayreset

Skye Blue Beauty salon

153 Station Street

Burton on Trent

DE14 1BG

01283 561208

 

Skinbase Microdermabrasion in the Spotlight

You may have seen the TV adverts for the Skinbase Microdermabrasion Facial (if not, we've added a youtube link below)

A little about Microdermabrasion first;

"A non-surgical approach to skin rejuvenation, regular exfoliation with MD does wonders for a dull and lacklustre complexion. To get the most out of your at-home skincare products you need to remove old build up before anti-ageing creams and serums can really penetrate and take effect. Microdermabrasion treatment does this by using tiny crystals to slough away old skin cells, clear blocked pores and polish the face.
An immediate improvement can be seen after treatment. MD is a firm celebrity favourite, New York City dermatologist David Colbert, M.D., who treats Sienna Miller and Rachel Weisz, says: “When HDTV kicked in, it became our most sought-after pre-awards show procedure, we had to open a second office!”. (source: Glamour magazine) Exfoliation with MD provides a great base for an even application of makeup.
Mineral makeup can even be applied straight after treatment. MD has also been proven to enhance the barrier function of the skin resulting in increased hydration. (source: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/)"

And of course you can get this great treatment in our Burton Salon - Visit http://www.skyebluebeauty.net/Microderm.htm for more details.

Call, or visit our salon;

Skye Blue Beauty

153 Station Street

Burton Upon Trent

Staffordshire

DE14 1BG

01283 561208